Filed under: History, Modern Nostalgic, Shopping, Vintage | Tags: archive, British, department, design, fabric, heritage, history, interiors, Liberty, London, pattern, shop, store, tour, Tudor
Today was an extra exciting jaunt to Liberty, as myself and a dear friend were treated to a whistle-stop tour of the lesser- spotted aspects of Liberty’s history.
Meeting Anna, the in-house archivist for Liberty at the appointed hour in Customer Services, we were whisked downstairs and across the narrow street to the original frontage of the building (now owned by clothing brand COS), where Anna asked us to walk a little further on and raise our heads to the skies…
Above, barely seen, are huge Oriental style columns and carvings, which marked Liberty’s original raison d’être as an Oriental Emporium; bringing luxury exotic goods to the (albeit well-heeled) masses.
When Liberty opened its doors in 1875, built on a loan of £2,000 from Arthur Liberty’s future Father-in-law, and with just 3 staff, it was excellent timing. Liberty offered its clientele objets d’art, luxurious rugs and fabrics at the height of fashion with the public clamouring for desirable Eastern exoticism mixed with the comforting backbone of British tradition, and a sort of passionate longing for a romanticised Heritage which described the ideals of the Pre-Rapahelite movement.
As we re-trace our steps and walk back to the entrance, Anna tells us to look up again at the strange little bridge between the original building and the newer part that Liberty now inhabits. This was specifically built to join the two sides together, but with the written stipulation that “…should one of the buildings be sold and used by another company, the bridge should immediately be pulled down. Which means, of course, that it shouldn’t still be standing,” Anna laughed, “though as it’s been listed, I think it’s pretty safe now.”
The Tudor facade of the building we now think of as Liberty was actually built while the original building underwent refurbishments, so they could continue trading; and was chosen to stand for all that the ultra fashionable householder could desire – the entire building was meant to be a kind of Show Home Par Excellence. And indeed, for a price, you could walk in and have the exact carvings and “draped linen” effect wooden panels in your own home – built and furnished entirely by Liberty. Very nice, too. Put me down for one of everything, please!
Climbing into one of the quirky wooden lifts, Anna remarks that people who work on Liberty occasionally like to gently poke fun at a certain kind of wide-eyed tourist, by loudly acclaiming the wonders of their “original Tudor lifts.” The thought of this amused me greatly, though as we guffawed, I couldn’t help noticing the slightly crestfallen face of the lady standing beside us, and hoped we hadn’t crushed her marvelling at the advanced technology of those Tudor types. Bless.
The dark wooden beams and chunky Heraldic carvings in the 1920’s Tudor style building that so epitomises the Liberty aesthetic were actually taken from two massive ships, the HMS Impregnable and HMS Hindustan. The frontage of the building on Great Marlborough Street was supposedly constructed to be the same length and width as the Hindustan, though to Anna’s knowledge this has never been absolutely verified. It’s a pleasing thought, so let’s just imagine it’s true and leave it at that.
There is definitely the salty tang of the sea about Liberty’s interior. Perhaps it’s all the creaking timbers and the way it’s laid out, but one can certainly imagine you are all aboard the Good Ship Liberty, a proud galleon of British idealism, all oak leaves and marigolds, in full sail, carrying exotic goods gathered from each corner of the Empire.
Trotting through the store at a cracking pace, startling crowds and scattering tourists as we went, Anna got us to notice the way the wood is treated differently in certain areas – variously varnished, gilded, painted, and (horrifically, in my opinion) bleached with vagaries of fashion and reflecting the changes of what is seen as ‘good taste’ in different eras. “In the sixties they wanted everything modern and new, none of this old stuff, so the thought was that the woods was far too dark. So they either ripped bits of it out or had a go at bleaching it.”
Some of the wood was re-stained, some left as it was, and this adds to that patchwork Make Do and Mend, higgledy-piggledy nature of the place. And this is the way it has always been, the building is constantly changing shape with use, and so it should. This is a living, breathing business, not a museum piece trapped in aspic.
Luckily they didn’t destroy too much if the original carvings, but a great deal of the original plaster work was chiseled out. In a few places you can still see the moulded oak leaves and ornate ceilings that would have been everywhere, but most walls are plain these days.
The tea rooms originally used to be in the basement, the clue to this being the tiled walls, though this now fits very well with the menswear section and traditional style barbershop that now lives here. In what is now used as the hat department, along one wall, is a huge and incredibly ornate safe with a massive lock. “This used to be the jewellery department, and they kept the most valuable pieces locked away.”
Luxury leathers, now full of designer bags, once housed Liberty’s Goods In delivery area. “The street that runs alongside it was once a quiet little alleyway, so perfect for having their deliveries brought into; but when the street became more wealthy and successful, the store had to increase its frontage and entrance ways to entice the shoppers in, so the area became prime floor space instead.”
Liberty has changed to meet the world around it, too, then, just as it has changed internally over the years. As we cautiously peered over the railings on the top floor, Anna bade us look right down to the ground below. It’s a rather dizzying sensation, I can tell you. Next, she showed us another section in which a floor had been inserted in the 1960’s, again to maximise floor space, which is understandable but rather regrettable, like much of the Sixties architectural choices, if you ask me. She said, sounding like Prince Charles. ;-p
When I’m usually in Liberty, my eyes are darting from one one thing to the next, there is so much to see you quite literally don’t know where to look next. It’s quite wonderfully exhausting, just trying to take it all in; every surface laden with goodies.
My favourite throughout the whole tour was the way Anna would suddenly pause and point out the things you normally miss amidst the sumptuous offerings. “Look, there’s one!” she exclaims, and we creep closer to the window she’s pointing at, peering at the tiny fragment of stained glass the window pane had been patched with.
“There are simply loads of these scattered through the whole of Liberty’s,” Anna explained. They would buy up antiques and old windows in auctions and patch the glass whenever a bit got broken or damaged.
Anna explained this informal way of displaying goods for sale was quite revolutionary. Instead of just relying on special cabinets and shop fittings, Liberty revelled in the backdrop of the building itself to best display their wares: rugs draped over wooden railings, fabrics arrayed over antique tables, baskets arranged in fireplaces – just as they are today.
Fabrics must be what Liberty is most famous for selling, but in fact the rug department is the only original link to their true beginnings as an Oriental Emporium. The rugs are still draped nonchalantly over the wooden railings, as though awaiting the attentions of the maid and her brush.
I love the cosy homeliness of Liberty – albeit on a grand scale. The fact that around every corner peeps a carved wooden figure, peeking through the Liberty Print shirts, mischievous little links to the past. Anna’s favourite is the Elephant “It has really odd, strangely human ears, don’t you think?” My favourite has to be the lion, as it looks really worried and a bit scared. A cowardly lion, perhaps? This playfulness only adds the charm and character of the place.
At the moment, Liberty is festooned with elegantly naive Christmas decorations, the golden chains harking back to the crepe paper ones of childhood, and hug from the original carved beams, some of which are from the ships that never made it to sea, some from the specialised wood turners Liberty employed, who would also make them to commission for your house, if you had sufficient funds for the task.
The awe inspiring chandeliers which drop almost the full height of the building are always there, though these obviously aren’t original. “They replaced them in the 1990’s as the weight of the previous ones were found to be pulling the ceiling down!” Anna chuckled. “These are far lighter, and were chosen for their airiness while retaining that same grandeur.”
There are far older chandeliers in the building, like this one which dates back to the opening of the 1920’s section, and according to Anna “…was once the longest chandelier in Europe. Or maybe it still is, I must admit I don’t know for sure.”
The glowing ice-crystal like droplets really are magnificent, and I like the fact they are obviously very modern but with a splendour that seems to belong to an earlier age. This very much fits Liberty’s clever balance of strikingly new designer ranges and the incredibly classic patterns and designs they built their name on.
Now when I come to Liberty, as well as gazing in awe at the thousands of Wondrous Things to buy, as I always have, I shall definitely be looking at the building itself a lot more. “There’s always more to see, I find new things all the time that I’d never noticed before, even more patched windows!” Anna tells us. She is based over at the Wholesale building across the narrow alley (that runs under the infamous bridge), but is in the Tudor-esque bit very often, on one fact finding mission or another. “People write to me from all over the world, sending me scraps of material from their bridesmaid dresses and trying to trace the pattern’s name.”
It was a pity the Heritage Suite was still being used at the end of our tour, Anna had hoped it would be empty by then so she could show it to us. “It used to be the Director’s dining room,” she explained, “but is now hired out for various functions, meetings or events. Ooh, and if you ever have a beauty treatment here, you must get them to show you the room off the makeup hall which is all gold panelled and was used to formally receive Queen Mary!”
Although there are several department stores around the world that have become tourist attractions in their own right, there can surely be few where the actual building and interior is so vitally important to the ethos of the company and the very goods they sell. Liberty sell you pieces of the dream you’re standing in.
Filed under: Accessories, Bags, Boots, Fashion, Style | Tags: 2012, 400m hurdles, Boots, design, Dr Martens, fabric, Fashion, Liberties of London, Liberty, London, material, Nike, Olympics, Perri Shakes-Drayton, Print, satchel, Team GB, trainers
“Where Liberty [print] is, there is my country.” – Slightly adapted from a quote by Benjamin Franklin.
One is supposed to harbour a seething hatred of the monstrosities one is forcibly dressed in as a child, though it’s easier to live with when your mother was a fashion buyer, I suppose, and therefore seemed to escape the deepest realms of hideousness that several of my contemporaries endured while growing up in the 1970’s.
– Page from the Liberty Book of Home Sewing.
One of my favourite items of clothing as a child was a Liberty Print pinafore dress, which had puffed ‘leg o’mutton’ Victorian style sleeves. As I rather fancied myself a Victorian Urchin at the time (one of my favourite games, being already obsessed with the era, though perhaps for authenticity’s sake, urchins of any era tend not to have access to legally obtained items from Liberties of London); it quickly became my most beloved dress. I still have a hankering for most things Liberty Print, and I especially like the way many contemporary designers and clothing brands have incorporated the prints into their ranges.
I just adore everything about this satchel by Dr. Martens, featuring the iconic Strawberry Thief print. It’s a design classic and VERY much on my Want List.
Again by Dr. Martens, these floral Liberty Print boots take me right back to my days as an English student, swishing about the bluebell woods in long skirts, flower pattern DM’s, white shirts, pinstripe waistcoats and a huge silver fob watch I worse on a long silver chain around my neck. I was obviously a neo-Steampunk. ;P
I’m not generally a fan of trainers, but would definitely wear these beautiful Nike ones, exclusive to Liberties. They manage to be pretty without being twee or reminiscent of the kind of trainers that sports brands bring out imagining all women want to look like Barbie while playing sport/working out. Or at any other time. I don’t require everything to be pink just because I’m female, thank you, because I’m no longer 4 years old – and I didn’t much like it then, either. I can feel my Disposable Razors Aimed At Women rant coming on, so shall gloss over the topic and move swiftly on.
Talking of trainers, Nike have designed a pair of their Zoom Victory Elite trainers exclusively for Team GB Olympic hopeful, Perri Shakes-Drayton, who’ll be proudly wearing them for her 400m hurdle event on Sunday. Combining ultra-modern design with a striking heritage ‘Mirabelle’ print first introduced in the 1960’s by Liberty, they form part of an ongoing collaboration between the companies that goes from strength to strength. I’m always drawn to the designs that happily mix the the old with the new, and the work Nike and Dr. Martens are doing with Liberty is an outstanding example of how it should be done. Bravo!
“Life without Liberty [print] is like a body without spirit.” – Slightly adapted from a quote by Khalil Gibran.
Filed under: Couture, Etsy, Fashion, Vivienne Westwood | Tags: Anglomania, clothes, design, draped, Etsy, Fashion, Greek, label, Le Muse, Lithuania, Rick Owens, Roman, Vivienne Westwood
Supreme comfort is, I think you will agree, very rarely combined with sublime sexiness; and yet that is exactly where fashion label Le Muse completely excel. I have lusted after several of their pieces since discovering them on Etsy, and finally plumped for the Asymmetric top as my first purchase.
I never thought I will start creating clothes for others, even though I made clothes for myself for ages. I guess I was influenced by my grandmother, who was designing and making clothes all of her life. And now I have started too. It all started with the fabric… I bought a wonderful cloth. It was so cozy and beautiful, that I didn’t need to do much with it. I started to drape it in different ways and I’ve noticed that it falls in wonderful waves. Every time I moved, it changed and curved adapting to the lines of my steps and gestures. I kept on wondering how could I catch those curves and flux of the fabric… Well, I believe I did it. And that’s how LeMuse was born. ~ Lina, Le Muse.
Oh, my top is just fantastic – a heavy, fluid jersey that just drapes beautifully and everything cut & stitched to perfection. With Le Muse, simplicity is the key feature, along with fabrics which drape without clinging. You can wear it ruched-up as a top (and off one-shoulder or draped at the front), or pulled down to its longest length, it could certainly be worn as a short dress or as a tunic with leggings.
Hailing from Vilnius – the capital of Lithuania – Sophia & Lina are the talented duo behind Le Muse, and in my package I received a rather unique postcard: a handwritten message on the back of a large, foil-wrapped packet of flavoured loose tea, urging me to “…always feel the most beautiful & unique muse in the world!” which I think is utterly charming. 🙂
I tried it on as soon as it arrived, and only wish I had ordered from them months ago! Now, of course, I am making up for lost time by compiling a list of Things I Want To Order Next. Top of that list is, currently, the Forest Muse dress. I should also take a moment to mention the wonderful photography of some of Le Muse’s clothes – they just look so incredibly appealing and effortlessly elegant.
Now, who could possibly not want to run through fields with armfuls of magazines or drape oneself in the grass with a foamy pitcher of fresh milk, having browsed through their styles? I would certainly be throwing myself about with abandon in a meadow, were it not raining and were I not full of a Sunday roast.
Every time a woman would dress in LeMuse, I would notice how differently it looked. It adapts to individual body and moves with that person in its own unique and beautiful way. ~ Le Muse
The styles on offer at Le Muse aren’t afraid to show a little flesh – a bare shoulder here, a daringly low-cut back there – but are gently provocative without leaving the wearer feeling naked or uncomfortable in that awful constant re-arranging frenzy that comes upon one if you happen to feel your dress is too short or too tight and so remain clamped to a mirror, pulling at bits of your outfit and constantly re-checking it throughout the day. That way madness lies, as many women will surely agree! Even if you think a lady looks fabulous in a piece, if she isn’t comfortable in it, you can tell immediately, and nothing is more off-putting than someone who obviously feels out of place in whatever they are wearing.
This black silk open-back dress is just stunning, I love the fluidity of the silk – it looks like it would be a dream to wear against the skin, too.
This is also available in a deep blue – the colour of the sky at dusk, which is quite lust-worthy in and of itself.
I also really like the fact that – as with many Le Muse pieces – from one angle it may look quite ‘proper’ and slightly subdued, but from another it can be quite racy, that sensuous swathe of open space at the deeply cut back. Gorgeous!
Le Muse use the natural curves of the body to drape their pieces in a manner that puts me in mind of Roman togas or the artfully gathered fabrics used in ancient Greece that, in turn, have influenced designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Rick Owens.
When you consider that each item of clothing is individually made for the wearer (there are standard sizes, but Le Muse can also tailor each piece exclusively to your requirements), I think the value for money is excellent. There is a little bit of patience involved, as your item is crafted for you, but they keep you up to date with the process and the waiting is definitely worthwhile!
I really think there’s something for most ages and sizes in Le Muse’s collections, they have a definite and recognisable style to them, but are quite diverse for all that. From tops to dresses, with some coats and jackets in the new range and all manner of coziness to snuggle into, or sensuality to swathe yourself in, you should definitely go and check out their full range.
Go to the Le Muse website to learn more about the label and to view the incredible collections in full, or to their Etsy shop – just click the picture below to be whisked there right now…