Beyond the Pale

Dandy Manifesto: A/W Fashion Trends
September 12, 2009, 12:48 am
Filed under: Chaps, Etsy, Fripperies, Painted Ladies, Shoes, Trinkets

I love Autumn best of all the seasons – everything about it. The dappled sunlight, the frosty mornings, bonfire smoke curling into the crisp air, conkers, kicking through piles of crispy leaves, the excitement (yes, EXCITEMENT) of donning your first cosy sweater of the year, of choosing your winter coat but not having to wear it just yet: the whole clichéd shebang.

Autumn Reds by Mark Forester

Autumn Reds by Mark Forester

I have been accused in the past of only favouring this time of year because my birthday falls in November, but this is utter rot & poppycock, as I have never been overly thrilled by birthdays and usually choose to celebrate mine in an understated way.

No, Autumn is the best season for all the above reasons and sartorially speaking, too – the fact that I generally loathe Summer adding more logs to that particular fire. The fashions are always far more interesting, don’t you think? Outfit choices go from whatever happens to be coolest against the skin (my own bare legs fill me with a particular horror, being paler than two bottles of milk and utterly unused to being exposed to the sun) to an array of gorgeous fabrics and – O joy! O rapture! – the comforting ability to layer.

This coming A/W looks to be especially pleasing in the world of fashion, with Paris-based trend forecasting company Nelly Rodi having picked four main looks, my favourite being what they term the Dandy Manifesto:

Autumn / Winter 09 Dandy Manfesto by Nelly Rodi

The world of books, writing, manuscripts, calligraphy and coded language. A theme combining the somewhat stuffy elegance of the Oscar Wilde style dandies with a bohemian, more modern, poetic, “artist” spirit. An androgynous silhouette: chic and decadent for a look both outdated yet contemporary.

A dark, shady range in a variety of inky tones. Touches of color electrify the palette. And to tone it all down: white and taupy or grayed shades.

Experimental, audacious make-up borrows from Dadaism, typography and photo-montage.
Two palettes co-exist: the first explores paper, whiteness and material effects, while the second, darker range is inspired by ink, pencil, charcoal and graphite.

– Men’s supple, ultra-fine worsted wools in the spirit of Savile Row tailors
– Stripes used with subtlety: discreet banker’s stripes, stippled chalk stripes, tuxedo pants emphasized with a band of tone-on-tone satin. A graphic spirit borrowed from the wide stripes of club ties or men’s satin waistcoats
– Fluid fabrics, heavily drapey silks: crepe, crepe georgette, chiffon
– Delicate lace and embroidered tulles
– Jacquards and tapestry style weaves are inspired by the elaborate covers of old books

Key Women’s’ Products
– Redingote-coats. Short 2-in-1 jackets (jacket + waistcoat). Little men’s waistcoats.
– Cigarette-legged pants and darted cropped pants.
– Striped shirts or with plastrons, shirttails, with scarves and lavallieres.
– Cardigans. With tailored collars, belted, Jacquard
– Oversized jackets
– Skintight miniskirts in stretch cotton with rock details: zips, buckles, insets
– Lace tops and dresses.

Key Men’s Products
– Tuxedo spirit, fitted cuts, in a sportswear mood
– Short coats in little English checks, basket weaves, tweed. Duffle-coats
– Historical military coats: engraved ball buttons and double-breasted
– Prints: checks and flowers for hunting jackets, waistcoats and tapered pants.
– Riding jackets, short, buttoned and fitted

– Women: lambskin gloves. Textile shoes, decorated pumps, with patent or gimped and perforated toes. Material mixes for bags: skins, crocodile, and natural leather
– Men: caps inspired by riding hats. Tartan ties. Military and riding boots. Checked Borsalinos.

Of course I had to do my take on the trend and put together a selection of fashion items I really hope you’ll agree capture this look, and which I very much hope you’ll enjoy browsing through…

Dandy Manifesto 1

Direct links to items shown:

Deerheart Vintage

Pink Quartz Minerals

Secret Back Room

Fait Avec

Prizy Sebastian

I’m Your Present

Dandy Manifesto 2

Further Links:


Studio One Designs

Katarina Couture


Claire La Faye

Dakota’s Vintage


3 Comments so far
Leave a comment

Fascinating looks and I just love when the trends are so different from previous seasons.

Comment by dakotasvintage

[…] Dandy Manifesto: A/W Fashion Trends […]

Pingback by Autumnal Sunlight: October Wedding Inspiration « Beyond the Pale

gucci and prada also makes beautifully styled ladies shoes but are expensive :.~

Comment by PNP Transistor

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